Exclusive: Akaaro’s Gaurav Gupta On Proudly Giving The Saree A New Identity
The new idea of saree!
The recently departed season of Lakmé Fashion Week X FDCI witnessed an array of experiments with sarees. The India-born silhouette walked the runway in new colours, with fresh concepts and provided a modern-day appeal to wearers. The idea of bringing the saree under a new light was pushed forward to reimagine its identity from a fussy garment to something that gives you a second skin appeal.
And amongst the many creators, who endorsed this new version of the saree, designer Gaurav Jai Gupta’s new collection under his label–Akaaro was a fresh perspective on indigo. For his new range of sarees, titled–The Sky Is Mine, Gupta’s vision of six-long years finally made it to the runway. The Autumn/Winter 2023 collection, paid homage to his love for India-born textiles, cherished weaves, Merino wool, monofilament silk and his signature blue. Taking us through his inspiration for the new range, and his idea of giving the saree a new shape, the designer sat down for an exclusive conversation with me.
View this post on Instagram
Q: Besides the innovative designs, your textiles are often the protagonist of every collection, considering your love for weaves. What’s fresh for this season?
Akaaro: So, there were a lot of bouncy fabrics. We did a lot of structure and I think we had very less time for this. We worked with a lot of what was already with us because you can’t put a collection in this short span of time. In terms of especially weaves, most of my work takes six months, a year, two years, sometimes three years. So, the basic idea of this show was three years back. We started working on it in the year 2017. So, we are showing it after six years. The freshness was mostly in terms of blend and I think colour.
View this post on Instagram
Q: Your love affair with India-loved sarees is giving the silhouette a new shape or perhaps new takers, who would earlier call it the difficult drape. What sparked your relationship with the new age saree?
Akaaro: There is no relationship as such. I’m born with it. In my house everybody wears sarees and it’s nothing new for us. There is just love and respect for the garment. So, we just try and do something fresh in terms of visual imagery, visual idea, and overall narrative. That’s about it.
View this post on Instagram
Q: Unlike some Indian designers, you take great joy in engineering this new identity of a saree, rather than falling back on the idea of nostalgia. How do you use this already celebrated silhouette as just a dough and mould a masterpiece?
Akaaro: I think old for me is slightly not very exciting, although it’s very great and there is a lot of amazing stuff out there, but I generally get bored, so I always look for something new and it’s about the future. So, you just push yourself. I think that’s the idea in terms of what we do, and keep experimenting. We drape a lot and I’ve been collaborating with stylist–Nikhil D who’s been styling for the show. I think a lot of credit actually goes to him because we work together. So, when let’s say I’ve created the thing, he comes and then we kind of say yes no.
Also Read: Leafy Cords, Picnic Prints, And Slogan Design: Behold The Reincarnation Of The Saree By These Indian Labels
Q: Being a graduate from a fashion school, I feel learning about India’s rich heritage and craft has been a luxury. Whereas with internet filled with fashion trends, celebs to commoners are all trying to ape the west. I feel there are so many people who are still so far away from this beautiful history. How can the fashion industry bring India’s rich history in textiles, fabrics and embroideries to the forefront, in an educative manner?
Akaaro: I think everybody’s looking at India right now. I train both in India and overseas. I come from a very small city and I’m not somebody for who it’s new. I’ve actually grown up around textiles in terms of at least seeing them. It’s just about once, as I say, you have to engage with it. You cannot sit and exoticize it. You have to go out there, work with it, and learn or think to put your point of view out. It’s not just about what the West is doing. Don’t be western be modern. That is the idea!
View this post on Instagram
Q: How can sarees go beyond the usual occasions?
Akaaro: So, I think the idea of what represents visually is about that. I think what we do at Akaaro is actually that. It is about sarees in your everyday life. It is about how do you generate interest, I think it’s a lot about engagement. Once you start wearing, then it’s just a habit and you start enjoying, you start playing with it, you’ll find it comfortable. It is just a part of who you are. It’s your second skin.
Image Credits: Instagram
Mrunal Thakur Stars As Roman Goddess Venus In Designer Shehla Khan’s New Collection Campaign
