Sustainability And Love For Khadi Became A Driving Force For FDCI X Lakmé Fashion Week, But Artisans Still Remained Behind The Curtain
Sustainability is sliding into important conversations in the world of fashion and it surely is the need of the hour. While many brands have been using the term for mere tokenism or at times just a marketing tool, some brands are aiming for a big change. A glimpse of the latter is what we saw at this year’s season-fluid FDCI X Lakmé Fashion Week. From vegetable, natural dyes, made in India headlines to Earth-friendly production, designers came forward to celebrate Sustainable Fashion Day on Day 2 of the fashion week. Some interesting ideologies and inventions that marked their presence in the line-up were many labels like Adidas, Khanijo, Nitin Bal Chauhan, Satya Paul to name a few.
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Starting with footwear that made its mark, Adidas Originals in collaboration with designer labels Khanijo and Antar-Agni, displayed a roaster of eco-conscious shoes. Pretty much like the classic sneakers, Adidas joined hands with Parley Ocean Plastic to re-design sneakers made out of waste materials. And giving streetwear a fresh update were the two designer labels–Khanijo and Antar-Agni who re-imagined their signature craftsmanship with India’s celebrated handloom sector, artisanal textiles and home-known embroideries.
Furthermore, designer Nitin Bal Chauhan’s presentation of the crisis was intriguing. Marinating avant-garde with a social message, the collection titled–’Countdown’ spoke about the harmful effects of non-sustainable growth, leading to a bruised planet. He further experimented with Gravity ink (made from carbon) and exhibited pollution through unconventional construction, three-dimensional embroideries with a messed up system lying at its core. The elaborate silhouettes were headlined by embroidered text like ‘smog’ and ‘traps’ that made us all think about the rising hills of waste.
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Also Read: Exclusive: Punit Balana Talks About The Story Behind His ’Lakshmi’ Collection For FDCI X Lakmé Fashion Week And The Shaadi Wear Trend He’s Rooting For
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While the work on an eco-conscious system was seemingly still in process, designers throughout the week of glam approached sustainability and homegrown sentiments through their collections. Then be it designer Punit Balana’s vegetable-dyed creations, designer experiments with eco-printing, transparent, block chain system, hand-blocked fabrics, and even Aisha Rao’s stunning lehengas curated out of excess fabric waste, creations remained conscious.
Apart from the voices of sustainability that managed to impress the invitees, Khadi India’s collective showcase was a fresh take on India’s ‘Fabric Of Freedom.’ Headlined by designers like Rina Dhaka, Anju Modi, Abhishek Gupta Benares, Anavila, Charu Parashar, their showcase included the many versions of the celebrated fabric, marinated with distinct aesthetics. The collections by varied designer labels also made sure to incorporate the fabric texture and beautify their collection with natural dying techniques, with an aim to also display India’s rich fashion history, through home-known embroideries and weaves. Starting from West Bengal’s Jamdani motifs to the incorporation of a sattvic colour scheme representing chandan, keshari and haldi, one lineup that brought a fresh approach to the wedding wear sector was designer Charu Parashar’s ‘The Khadi Bride.’ Marrying off the simplistic features of Khadi with the dhamaka of Indian weddings, Charu’s pre-wedding line was filled with mirror work, crisp construction, mustard hues and scalloped overcoat hemlines.
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Moreover, the lineup witnessed an inaugural showcase by Parisian designer Mossi Traoré, who paid a heartfelt tribute to India’s ingrained design aesthetic, with Khadi serving as the perfect hero element. Talking further about his approach to the free-spirited collection, Mossi talked about his dream of taking Khadi creations to Paris with showstopper/ actress Kangana Ranaut as the muse of the collection. Wherein many designers displayed the sorrows of wastelands, some others talked about the solutions to curb it. And one amongst the latter segment was designer label Satya Paul as presented by Rajesh Pratap Singh. A print party as the invitees witnessed at the venue, Satya Paul’s signature print design met R|Elan™ ‘s –GreenGold, an eco-conscious fabric which was interestingly made from PET bottles and consciously manufactured.
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With the massive colour play, an introduction of printed gloves and the year’s ‘It’ accessory balaclavas, Satya Paul tutored the many ways to construct a greener closet. Furthermore, the Circular Design Challenge 4.0 presented by R|Elan Fashion for Earth in association with FDCI X Lakme Fashion Week, and UNEP, offered young and emerging designers the opportunity to spin the design wheel, with respect to lesser or zero harmful impact on the planet. The added spice of sustainability as displayed by the country’s most celebrated labels helped invitees make notes on an eco-conscious way of lifestyle.
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While the aim throughout the fashion week remained true to its approach of making sustainability a loving trend, we hoped to see more of it coming our way. As something that is yet to spread its wings, it was important to rethink some off-the-runway choices like the distribution of plastic water bottles and paper invites.
But where the artisans at?
Observing the showcases, another question that constantly made it to many conversations was the absence of artisans. A pratha that has been dear to runways for years, many artisans and karigars remained behind the curtains, with their creations living under the glimmering lights. While systems today in India have slightly become more observant about the members who make these scintillating garments, runways yet again remained a spot for designers, starry showstoppers and put-on display models. An artisan story that in no time becomes a post for a brand’s social circle, the karigars and curators of these applaudable garments took the backseat. I feel in times when the country’s craftsmanship and indigenous embroideries have been running the trend race, it’s important to put on display the hands who’ve been meticulously creating them. Something we all hope to see getting its due in the near future.
The week of glam by all means, remained a conversation starter for many. A fresh, new start post the pandemic, designer houses made their way on the runway with newer ideologies, relevant chit-chats and a design language that appeals to if not all then most.
Hauterrfly is delivering all the piping hot updates from the FDCI X Lakmé Fashion Week. Follow our series #HauteFrontRow here and on our Instagram to catch the coverage!
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