Exclusive: Designer Gaurang Shah Narrates The Tale Of His ‘Sindoor’ Collection For FDCI X Lakmé Fashion Week, His Love Affair With Sarees, And Dressing Up The Modern Bride
Sarees have always been dear to India. With closets filled with this classic silhouette, drapes remain a signature festive-appropriate piece for shoppers to pick. With evolution hitting the right chords in design, sarees have found a safe spot in both classic and contemporary categories. For buyers, the idea of picking a saree has become an emotion. Designers mastering the art of curating a saree, have also been putting the drape under a unique spotlight. For many, nostalgia has become a road map for a desirable collection. And one of the many designers is Gaurang, who has given this silhouette an heirloom-worthy update. His reprised version of Indian textiles, traditional weaves and local embroideries, has found a space in every celebrity closet.
As the designer gears up to present his latest–Sindoor collection at FDCI X Lakmé Fashion Week, today, we took a dip inside his mood boards for his new range of royal stitch. In an exclusive conversation with Hauterrfly, Gaurang takes us through his world of designs.
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Q: You described your latest collection as an “unusual bridal edition.” Can you please elaborate on that?
Gaurang: This unusual bridal edition combines the magnificence of handwoven, and handcrafted textiles, which will include a distinctive line-up of gorgeous handwoven garments. Rich, traditional weaves like Kanjeevaram, Paithan, Banaras, Kota, Uppada, Khadi, and Muslin are fused with complex Gara, Kasuti, Aari, chikan, and Kutch embroidery, in this most sustainable collection to date. Furthermore, these dynamic crafts have been balanced with surface textures of bandhani, shibori, Patachitra, Kalamkari, and Cheriyal paintings.
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Q: How does Sindoor rest at the core of this collection? What was the inspiration behind it?
Gaurang: The Sindoor collection is a confluence of varied crafts, never imagined together before. Contemporary brides with an eye for revivalist handcraft will twirl in this journey towards sustainability.
Q: Who is a contemporary bride according to you?
Gaurang: The modern bride, in my opinion, is someone who wants to express her unique sense of style throughout the event, including her hair, makeup, and clothing. To me, one who symbolises the traditional handloom saree with minimalist accessories is the embodiment of a Contemporary bride.
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Q: Your collection predominantly includes traditional weaves like Kanjeevaram, Paithan, Banaras, Kota and more. What is about these traditional weaves that you love the most?
Gaurang: I am an ardent follower of the Jamdani weave technique, it gives me great courage to explore inventive designs and textile fusions that have never been attempted before. The saree is a six-yard canvas that mesmerises me for the kind of designs that one can create eternally.
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Q: A fabric that you think is coming back this season of festivals?
Gaurang: Handlooms are suited to almost all seasons, festivals and occasions. Traditionally for me, a saree is a must. Each variety of saree has unique designs and colour elements. The big border saree is an eye stealer.
Q: How have you taken a sustainable approach towards this collection?
Gaurang: My weaves are designed with sustainability and timelessness in mind. Rich, traditional weaves like Kanjeevaram, Paithan, Banaras, Kota, Uppada, Khadi, and Muslin are fused with complex gara, Kasuti, aari, chikan, and Kutch embroidery make up for my most sustainable collection to date.
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Q: A celebrity’s saree looks that you love the most?
Gaurang: I love every elebrity wearing Gaurang’s Jamdani woven saree.
Q: Bandhej and shibori are finding a way in many celebrity wardrobes today, with designers also giving the traditional dyes an exciting upgrade. What about it appeals to modern-day shoppers?
Gaurang: What appeals to your personality, and taste is what matters the most. Anything inventive is appealing, and that is what every designer strives to achieve. If you look at the big border saree we introduced, it brought a distinctive identity to an Indian saree and it retains its charm forever.
Q: Conscious clothing in many ways is still a very exclusive market, considering it costs shoppers much more than usual. How do you make sure that it is more approachable for a wider spectrum?
Gaurang: This is a niche, those who admire and adore conscious clothing will always be lured towards it. Price is not that which comes to mind for such shoppers. If you break the niche, then you won’t have that alluring factor anymore.
Q: Do you believe customers today are still coming to you with big Bollywood looks on their mood boards?
Gaurang: Celebrities such as Kirron Kher, Sonam Kapoor, Taapsee Pannu, and Vidya Balan have always had a great influence on fashionistas. They do influence shopping decisions, yet on most occasions, it is the love for saree and traditional handlooms that lure them to our creativity and textile innovations.
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Q: What are the festive wear trends that you think will headline the season?
Gaurang: For making a striking presence during Indian festivities, nothing like the traditional clothing like the saree, ghagras, anarkali’s and kurtis.
Q: Ethnic, traditional wear has always been dear to Indian homes and a piece that travels through the passage of time and generations. Do you think that perception is changing with time and the rising popularity of modern-day, not-so-one-of-a-kind designs? If not then, how do you as a designer make sure of weaving a personal touch for your customer base?
Gaurang: Perception is ever-changing but to me, the perception towards traditional handlooms has been growing multifold, the timeless body of work always remains the most sustainable clothing. It is the design and uniqueness that appeals to every shopper. Otherwise, handlooms and sarees would have gone into oblivion. I envision my designs to carry a signature, distinctive appeal, which every woman would love to own. As long as the designer is able to deliver unique appeal in his weaves, there will always be clientele who would come over and over again asking for more.
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