Day 1 Highlights From AIFW 2016
It’s the 26th edition of Amazon India Fashion Week (AIFW) and we must say Day 1 was a really good one for fashion. Kickstarting the proceedings with a quiet yet forceful statement was Sanjay Garg, who gave us a suitably classy collection. Other designers included Anavila Misra, Vaishali S, Rabani & Rakha, Vineet Bahl, Kavita Bhartia and Shivan & Narresh.
Undoubtedly, the highlight of the day was Sanjay Garg’s collection. A combination of silk and cotton fabrics, mashru weaves were used throughout the presentation. Garg showcased beautifully crafted garments in bright jewel tones, including wide-sleeved tunics teamed with cropped pants, saris with boxy blouses, and simple lehengas with dupattas draped gently over the shoulders. The silhouettes were contemporary but with a deeply Indian soul, one that the modern Indian woman can connect with. Three words: Simple, classy, and elegant.
Hauterfly Pick: An emerald green kurta and lehenga teamed with an embroidered dupatta in the Gulbadan fabric. Such an exquisite piece.
In her debut collection for AIFW 2016, Misra exhibited a collection of saris with boxy blouses, tunics, and cropped trousers. Her garments were presented in polished pastel tones like cream, ecru, and cement grey, before finishing off in blue and charcoal. I really like the sparse use of traditional embroidery from Bihar like sujni and khatwa; these were noticed in a few pieces. All in all, a minimalist, ethnic line that looked comfortable to wear.
Hauterfly Pick: A gold sari with subtle shimmer in handwoven linen and a hyper short pallu.
Yajna by Vaishali S
Contemporary cuts and Western designs in flowy Indian fabrics was what designer Vaishali Shadangule’s collection Yajna was all about. According to me, the hero elements were the use of intricate thread detailing and the drapes. Deconstructed tunics, floor-lenth jackets over separates, fringes on pallus and the sides of tunics, etc.
Rabani & Rakha
A collection primarily in white and royal blue, Rabani & Rakha gave us some hyper elegant pieces: Be it ruffled lehengas teamed with lacy tops, 3D butterflies on saris and sheer dupattas, heavily-embroidered jackets teamed with saris, embellished collars, and ensembles replete with beading.
Hauterfly Pick: A fully-embroidered sari with pearls seeded at the borders, teamed with a semi-sheer blouse with a heavily-embellished choker as collar.
A mix of feminine colours with androgynous cuts, Vineet Bahl showcased a collection of collared high-low kurtis with cropped trousers, and tunics cinched at the waist. We saw him use minimal floral embroidery on garments that ranged in colours like peach, aqua and navy blue, canary yellow and more. We saw some gender fluidity in the garments; wide sleeves folded at the ends and pocket on tunics.
Indo-Western ensembles were a highlight of this show. Asymmetrical silhouettes, intricate floral motifs on garments, hanging sleeves, sequins on jackets, and cross stitch embroidery were some of the details in this collection.
Shivan & Narresh
One of my favourite designer duos, Shivan & Narresh’s collection was a treat for the eyes. Sexy bikinis in tropical prints, maillots with floor-length fringes, others panelled with leather (love!), cut-out one-shouldered dresses, and more bikini saris set the tone for this sexy, high-octane collection. We loved the styling; those scalloped, cut-out gladiators were so chic.
Hauterfly Pick: A neoprene, candy-pink lehenga teamed with an green, cut-out halter top. Definitely THE new lehenga style for the modern Indian bride.