From Leela To Gangubai, Tracing The Lipstick Evolution Of Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s Female Leads
Their lipsticks do the talking!
Like a true millennial, I am a fan of Sanjay Leela Bhansali and his work. Sanjay Leela Bhansali started his career in filmmaking in 1989 with Parinda and then forayed into film production in 1996 with Khamoshi. But it was Aishwarya Rai and Salman Khan starrer Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam that made him a household name. And year later, SLB is not only known for his bigger-than-life sets but also for his female leads that manage to look elegant as ever while they break the patriarchal norms of society and rebel against misogyny. Apart from being strong, independent and unapologetic, Bhansali’s female characters are also alluring. As the filmmaker dives deeper into his cinematic universe, the real queens of the Bhansali-verse happen to be the courtesans and they let their makeup do their talking for them, their lipsticks in particular.
Over the past few years, Sanjay Leela Bhansali has been making films on courtesans and highlighting how they too deserve dignity. Now we all know that the shade of lipstick a woman wears not only reflects her mood but also where she’s at in life. Lipsticks are how women talk and Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s female characters are no different. Over the course of years, Bhansali’s female leads have let their lipstick do the talking while reflecting their character arc. SLB’s female characters not only have depth but also a pop of colour on their lips that reflects their depth. So, let’s take a look at Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s female characters, their makeup evolution ad what it means for the character.
To begin with, we must identify the fact that Sanjay Leela Bhansali uses his film to pay a tribute to the courtesans and gives them a platform to ask for their rights.
1. Nandini In Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam
Let’s start with Aishwarya Rai’s Nandini in Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam. In the first half of the film, the character dons a lot of browns, caramel and brick-coloured lipsticks which are in sync with the makeup trend back in those days but at the same time, it also reflects how the character is bold and bubbly as she dares to fall in love. She also wears eyeliner and kohl to reflect her aankhon ki gustakhiyan. But towards the second half, you’ll see more light shades of brown edging to beige and nude tones. These muted tones speak louder than the character’s silence and the eyeliner highlights the pain of love in her eyes.
Also Read: From Roses To Courtesan Costumes, How Sanjay Leela Bhansali Crafts Grandeur In His Films
2. Paro And Chandramukhi In Devdas
In Devdas, Aishwarya Rai’s Paro wears loads of light pink tones with a glossy shine and the perfect winged eyeliner. These lipstick shades allowed us to see her as a delicate, pure-hearted woman but in the second half when the character switches to darker shades of pink in metallic and mauve tones, it showcases how the pain of love gave her a reality check. On the other hand, Madhuri Dixit’s Chandramukhi wore metallic tones of pink, brown, brick and mauve that highlighted her softness as well as her glamour as a courtesan. This was the first time we saw Sanjay Leela Bhansali showcase a courtesan who is better groomed than the heroine and rightly so.
3. Sofia in Guzaarish
Aishwarya Rai’s Sofia dons shades of red in Guzaarish which highlights how bold she is while also showcasing her shades of grey that make her more real.
4. Leela In Goliyon Ki Raasleela Ram-Leela
Goliyon Ki Raasleela Ram-Leela showcased Deepika Padukone’s Leela wearing a lot of pink tints, medium dark tones of brown as well as some pink nudes. Her character starts with pink tints and medium dark tones of brown to showcase her as a bold woman whose love is pure. Towards the end of the film, her lipsticks are shades of pink nudes highlighting her life which is devoid of love but not of the pain of love.
5. Mastani And Kashibai In Bajirao Mastani
Deepika Padukone’s Mastani opted for darker lipstick colours like red, brick, maroon, mauve and more such shades which reflected her character as someone who is bold and full of love but her love is shades of grey considering that she falls for a married man. On the other hand, Priyanka Chopra’s Kashibai wears tones of pink and light brown to highlight her innocence, love and purity. Kashibai’s lipstick shades change as she goes through several emotions while dealing with her husband’s second marriage with dignity and poise.
6. Padmavati In Padmaavat
In Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s Padmaavat, Deepika Padukone’s character opts for shades of nude and pink that reflect her poise and pure heart. But in scenes where she is seen as bold, there are light undertones of brown in her lipstick to highlight her boldness.
Also Read: ‘Heeramandi:’ Bhansali’s Netflix Series Unveils First Look Of Manisha Koirala, Sonakshi Sinha, Aditi Rao Hydari, And More
7. Gangubai In Gangubai Kathiawadi
But it was truly Gangubai Kathiawadi where Sanjay Leela Bhansali let Alia Bhatt’s lipstick do the talking. In the start of the film, Alia’s Gangu wears nudes and matt pinks but the shades change to red and brink tones as she becomes a sex worker and accepts her fate. But upon becoming the madam of the brothel, Gangu switches between lipsticks depending on her actions. On an average day, she opts for matt pink and nude colours but when she’s doing something bold like giving a speech about being a sex worker or getting the love of her life married to someone else, she opts for darker tones of red and maroon. Even as a sex worker, in scenes where she is fighting for the rights of women, she can be seen in muted nude shades of lipstick which highlight her moral compass.
Having said that, Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s courtesans are much better groomed that his heroines, the reason being the fact that as a courtesan, their looks matter. These women are bound to learn how to glam up and look stunning while remaining bold whereas his heroines ooze more innocence and happen to be delicate.
First Published: February 24, 2023 5:12 PM
