Day 3 Highlights From AIFW 2016
The highlight of Day 3 was the veteran designer Anamika Khanna’s very first ready-to-wear collection AnaMika. With 15 shows in all, designers like Nida Mahmood, Anupama Dayal, Shweta Kapur, Amit Aggarwal and others showcased their takes on the new season. Here’s a look at all the action.
HI-5 SHOW BY ABHI SINGH
Goth took over as inspiration in this summer line titled Melancholy; also the first show of day 3. A typically monochromatic collection in fabrics like silk, linen and net, Abhi Singh exhibited what young India falls back on for day-to-day wear — sheath dresses, jacketed separates, crop tops with trousers — and some not-so-casual gowns with thigh-high slits. Accessories like origami headgears, metallic, and viking-like masks were also spotted on the models.
Flared trousers, buttoned down kurtis with dresses, high-slit dresses in varied colours that ranged from orange to red, cobalt and mint blue, was what this show was about. We saw the comeback of the dhoti pant, which was teamed with shirts that doubled up as kurtis thanks to the extreme high-low cut. Floral embroidery was scattered minimally on the garments.
Weaving a story about a small-town girl who returns home after a short stay in Paris, designer Chhaya Mehrotra’s collection Bubbly In Paris was a reflection of vintage Europe on Benarasi handloom. In a colour pallete where pastel hues reigned, Mehrotra used Benarasi fabrics like organza and silk cotton in separates like skirts, trousers, tops and jackets. Parisian and floral motifs (roses, in particular) stood out. Mehrotra used all these and added ribbon-inspired denim brocade to her collection as well. TV anchor Shereen Bhan was the showstopper for Mehrotra.
Giving us an amalgamation of ethnic with contemporary, Pandey’s collection Masakali was an all-indigo collection with hints of white and red. Lehengas, dhoti pants and flared trousers with kurtis and crop tops, sheer jackets and capes over floor-length maxis, were some of the highlights of this show. An exceptional use of khadi and Mughal art as prints on garments was the USP.
Hauterfly Pick: A bleached, indigo blue full-length dress with a sheer cape. Loved the intricate floral embroidery on the cape and the Mughal-inspired ones on the hem of dress.
A collection that seemed rather busy, yet worked as vibrant and extremely wearable, this debut by Shalini James was one that had detailed block prints from both north and south (she’s known for her work with Bagru, Sanganer and kalamkari from Masulipatnam) on garments. Extreme layering in summery cottons made up the show. Make-up artist Ambika Pillai was the showstopper.
Hauterfly Pick: The concept of saris wrapped on skirts; innovative and chic.
Having summer written all over it, Archana Rao’s collection was all about muted shades using sheer, applique and mesh for garments. With dramatic sleeves and collars, the ensembles were highly feminine, with cute bow belts to cinch well-tailored suits and culottes with jackets. Socialite and actress Pernia Qureshi took to the ramp as showstopper.
Nikhita’s collection You Can Walk With Us was an almost white one; some garments combined with cold blue to work as casual evening wear with flattering cuts and silhouettes. Working with mesh and organza, we saw flared gowns with sweetheart necklines and thigh-high slits, maxi dresses with minimal cut-outs, crop tops with flared skirts, peplum tops in slitted high-low style teamed with shorts and more.
Hauterfly Pick: Showstopper Lauren Gottlieb looked stunning in a dramatic ruffled gown that was cinched with a bow and had a plunging neckline.
431-88 BY SHWETA KAPOOR
In georgettes and crepes, Shweta Kapoor presented a collection that had everything from laser cuts to minimal leather detailing. A combination of edgy and sporty, crisp cuts were used with motifs that seemed inspired by the Mughal era.
Hauterfly Pick: A sari draped with shorts and a jacket looked way cool on ramp.
Some models walked around with suitcases and cameras working orange cat-eyed sunglasses while others donned carnival-esque headgears. Mahmood exhibited sheath dresses with sheer sleeves, tunics, knee-length and ankle-length trousers, bomber jackets, short kurtis teamed with summer jackets, all in light-weight fabrics. Also, loved the colour-blocked platform sneakers by Adidas Originals. I’ll tell you this collection brought back the wanderlust in me… so touristy; for the fun girl in you.
Hauterfly Pick: An above-the-ankle checked, halter jumpsuit with floral embroidery.
VIRTUES BY VIRAL, ASHISH & VIKRANT
Using georgettes, chiffon, chanderi, silks like tussar and matka, and even Ahmedabadi weave brocade, this collection showcased works like zardosi and aari on garments. Ranging in a variety of colours across shades of blue, yellow and orange, we saw slitted and high-low tunics teamed with lehengas and ankle-cropped trousers, saris and more.
Taking a cue from up cycling, designer Amit Aggarwal took inspiration from gamchas and beach towels for this show. Flared jackets and skirts, dresses with dramatic sleeves and hemlines, capes and more were highlights.
ANUPAMAA BY ANUPAMA DAYAL
Tassels, tassels, tassels everywhere… be it on garments, earrings or even neckpieces. Manjula by designer Anupama Dayal was bohemian to the T. Working with vibrant colours, the designer showcased a collection comprising off-shoulder dresses, spaghetti-strap tops with skirts with multi-layers, jumpsuits, and flowy, buttoned-down shirt dresses. We loved the geometric prints and lines on the garments.
Hauterfly Pick: An off-shouldered midi dress in red with tassels on it.
It was all about abstract graphics on fluid fabrics like silk brocade, jacquard, satin georgette, tulle and voile, to create easy-to-wear pieces in the form of kaftans, A-line dresses, classic shirts and more. Some garments had raffia, plexi and stone embellishments, while others used graphic prints that were hand-painted in oil first to be reworked on later. We loved the floppy hats by Nina Sibiratkina.
Hauterfly Pick: A V-neck top in plum, which works midway with a petal-like cut teamed with a flared, tulle skirt.
If you’re looking out for some sexy beachwear for summer, here’s your go-to collection. La Playa Blanca was inspired by the free-spirited style of the Mediterranean islands. Free-flowing feminine silhouettes were key to this collection. We noticed hints of shell, macrame, crochet, lace and even beads on garments that were made out of chanderi, jacquard, organic lace and dumpach cotton. Long and short sundresses, sheer blouses with palazzos, tunics and wraps made up this collection.
Hauterfly Pick: A short white beach dress with bell sleeves; so summery.
Indian sportswear is a thing now, thanks to Anamika Khanna. With her first pret line, Khanna gave a sporty twist to the classic white kurta. With separates that ranged from crop tops and flared pants to fitted trousers with capes, the designer combined the indigo dyeing technique with shibori and clamp. Also using minimal embellishments, chikankari and embroideries and patchwork, this was an out-an-out stunner of a collection.
Hauterfly Pick: So many picks from this one. The embroidered, collared long jacket teamed with jeans and the classic white kurti with minimal embellishments teamed with a white ankle length trouser. Love!